A wine that is work

Quinta D. Matilde recently presented its new harvest of Quinta D. Matilde Reserva Branco and a novelty, Quinta D. Matilde Vinha do Pinto, a red that stands out, coming from strains over 90 years old that ferments and ages only in stainless steel.  

Making wines from old vineyards is no longer new, but creating a red like this without going to wood is no longer so common. Dona Matilde Vinha do Pinto is thus a different red that translates the genuineness of Douro wines from old vineyards, with an impressive depth. The maximum expression of the oldest vineyard of Quinta Dona Matilde, with more than 90 years (of the first generation of post-phylloxéric vineyards) and a wine almost without oenological intervention, whose proof leads us to the terroir of the farm, one of the oldest in the Douro Demarcated Region. This wine, as well as the White Reserve 2019 that was presented during a lunch organized by the producer, are the result of the detailed and detailed work that the oenology and viticulture team, led by João Pissarra and José Carlos Oliveira, respectively, has been developing in search of the knowledge of the fifth installment the plot, making the most of the potential of each of its old vineyards. 

More than old, the Vinha do Pinto is historic. After all, these are strains of the first generation of post-phylloxera vineyards, the disease that decimated the Douro at the end of the 19th century, cared for, year after year, by successive heirs, from great-grandfather to great-grandchildren, and still capable of giving rise to a surprising wine. "These great vineyards of the past have their own, marked and exclusive character. I find in them a great empirical knowledge of the viticulture of the time, which now allows us a personalized intervention, more expressive, spontaneous and natural. This is what makes them unrepeatable, as is the case with wines," says José Carlos Oliveira, a wine maker at Quinta Dona Matilde. "Revitalising wine-growing heritage is this. It is taking care of the legacy and giving it life through wines that are the maximum expression of the place", comments Filipe Barros, the heir of the fourth generation responsible for the marketing direction of the farm, explaining that "there was a desire to create some different wines" and that "they spoke of the old vineyards of Dona Matilde". Vinha do Pinto is the second in a series started in 2019 with the launch of Dona Matilde Vinha dos Cals Largos red 2017, already sold out in the producer.

This is also a way of dignifying the farm, presenting collection wines "in years when the old vineyards manifest all their splendor", adds the winemaker João Pissarra. "It motivates us an experimentalism that aims to explore the intrinsic qualities of the farm, traditionally dedicated to the production of Port Wine. We want to understand the effect of the time and the mixture of grape varieties on wines and their contribution to the production of high quality reds and whites", concludes.

From left to dirt, winemaker João Pissarra, producers Manuel Ângelo and Filipe Barros, and winegrower José Carlos Oliveira. Photos of Luísa Ferreira

In this sense, Dona Matilde Vinha do Pinto 2019 is a wine with little intervention in the cellar and without internship in wooden barricade, an option that ensures the exuberance of aromas, keeping, along side, the elegance and complexity characteristics of Dona Matilde wines. Produced with about 30 traditional Douro varieties, the grape harvest was made by hand in boxes of 25 kg, followed by pre-selection of bunches at the entrance of the cellar. Fermentation and aging took place for 18 months in a stainless steel vat. Of charged color, it has an intense aroma of black fruit and mineral notes, complemented with a deep palate, complex, fresh, elegant and very balanced, with persistent finish. Only 2800 numbered bottles were produced that will be on sale by PVP of 50€.

New edition of D. Matilde Reserva branco 2019

To the novelty of autumn, is also added the new edition of Dona Matilde Reserva branco 2019, created from the vineyards of white varieties of the farm, planted 25 years ago with the aim of producing white doc douro wines of high quality. Arinto and Viosinho predominate in these vineyards, and Gouveio and Rabigato are also predominant. The grape varieties were planted separately, but in the line of valorization of the wine heritage of the farm, this White Reserve is a field blend that results from a selection of grapes in the plots themselves. The winemaking of this wine began with a gentle pressing of the grapes followed by fermentation and stage of six months in barrels of 300 liters. In the aroma has white and tropical fruit and notes of wood, keeping in the palate a fruity profile. Complxo, unctuous and enveloping, with a refreshing acidity. It will be sold by PVP for 24€.

During the presentation was also proved the Dona Matilde White Reserve
Quinta D. Matilde, Douro.

It is resoused that Quinta D. Matilde belongs to the family of Manuel Ângelo Barros since 1927. It is among the oldest properties in the Douro region, integrating the first demarcation ordered by the Marquis of Pombal in 1756. The entire vineyard of the farm – a total of 28 hectares – has letter A, the highest classification of the vineyards for the production of Port Wine.

In addition to old vineyards aged between 80 and 90 years and others more recent, planted for more than 25 years, Quinta Dona Matilde has olive groves, vegetable garden, orchard and a large area occupied by uneducated land, of natural vegetation, which includes the so-called mortories. In total, the property has 93 hectares.

Part of the Barros group, which was sold in 2006, Quinta Dona Matilde eventually returned to a part of the family, a few months after the sale, when Manuel Ângelo Barros, grandson of the founder, decided to acquire it, maintaining the connection to the Douro.