Opinion

Adega Mayor reveals consistent work

For some good years now, businessman Rui Nabeiro decided to invest in a wine-related project, in nothing compared to what he did during his life in the coffee area, but always with the same entrepreneurial attitude that always characterized it. It seems to have been yesterday that there I went to cover the inauguration of the winery (2007) designed by the architect Siza Vieira, the first author in Portugal. After these years, with the wine project running in full swing, adega mayor decided to show the work done over the last few years with a top wine vertical of the Reserva do Comendador brand, which from 2009 was called Pai Chão. Reserva do Comendador 2003, 2005, 2007 and Pai Chão 2009, 2011, 2013 and 2014 were the years proved. The base grape variety, Alicante Bouschet, always present in the highest percentage in this wine (from 60 to 80%, according to harvests), was complemented in the early years with Trincadeira and Aragonese. More recently, from 2011, we chose to use the Touriga Nacional, in order to make it more silky but not less fresh. A kind of tamed rebellion, a personal nature given by winemakers Rui Reguinga and Carlos Rodrigues, who meanwhile came to replace in the project Paulo Laureano and Rita Carvalho, respectively. As at first, in this wine are utlized new French oak barrels, between 18 and 24 months (mostly 24). 
Despite the changes, the wine has maintained over the years a recognizable style, to the extent that it has never ceased to be a complex red, dense, bulky, with excellent acidity and wood always very well integrated. In the older years, its evolution revealed terciaries that gave me great pleasure, and in the most recent years, the red fruits, the notes of cocoa and tobacco leaf were always present, the balsamic side so characteristic of Alicante Bouschet. The latest move to Touriga as a complementary grape variety only benefits the consumer, especially the one who does not want or does not know how to wait for wine, but at least savor it with a meal to match. Great wines, yes ma'am.