Articles

She's back

Yes, chief Ana Moura is returning, after some time 'missing in combat' and now in a new project worth knowing: the 'Modern Bacalhoaria'. Not only for the food, tasty and creative, but also by the wine service, which is well done and attentive to the details. 

Let's go for parts. Susana Almeida e Sousa (pictured, left) is an architect, but always liked the culinary treats, cooking for friends and family, discovering new flavors, choosing the right food for the different occasions. For this reason, he decided to advance the dream of launching himself in the hospitality area and began by having a small space in the Ribeira market in Lisbon. However, a short time later, he realized that he wanted to go further and decided to open a restaurant seriously, so having invited young chef Ana Moura to the kitchen of her new space that opened on February 1st, in Rua de São Sebastião da Pedreira , no. 150, in Lisbon. 

As soon as you enter space you can see that the precept has been remodeled and decorated. The blue wall is filled with Bordallo Pinheiro crockery cod. The ceilings and ropes hanging from the ceiling complement a décor that honors the sea and fishing. On the menu, it is already known, cod is king, present in almost all dishes, from the entrances to the main dishes, coming directly from Iceland with Portuguese cure. The alternative to fish are two meat dishes and two vegetarians. 
To idealize the menu, Ana Moura was inspired by her professional experience that goes through Portuguese and Basque flavors. He interned at Eleven in Lisbon before moving to Spain where he acquired the largest set at Arzak's restaurant in San Sebastian (3 Michelin stars). Back in Portugal he went to work for Cave 23, at the Torel Palace Hotel, where he stayed about two years until he embraced this new project. 

On this way to Modern Bacchus I was lucky enough to do a tasting where I could taste everything a little. I started with two starters: the first cod tartar with mustard vinaigrette; and the second, vegetarian, vegetable-based, artichoke, brussels sprouts, white asparagus and mushrooms with caramelized seeds. In the dishes shone the Bacalhau à Brás; o Cod roasted with cabbage, shallots and roasted chicken sauce and finally the Piglet confide at low temperature for 20 hours. In desserts, the Afternoon of cheese with toffe and caramelized walnuts; the Orange pie with moscatel sabayon, and the Chocolate Mousse with white chocolate brownie. To complement all this, the wines: the White Pradinhos Valle 2107 for the entrances; oenologist red 2014 for the main courses; and Graham's 20 years for desserts. To highlight the service, with appropriate cups and correct service temperature; and the wine list itself, not very extensive but with interesting choices covering almost all national regions. 

In the midst of all this, Susana de Almeida Sousa and Ana Moura are to be congratulated. Susana for wanting and doing well, with details of service that only value her restaurant, and Ana Moura for her return, which allows gastrothanes to re-taste her food, always so well presented, made at the point, and so full of flavors .